On a map of Italy, if you place your finger on the city of Rome and draw a line directly across to the other coast, you will probably have your finger close to the city of Lanciano. Travel there takes approximately three hours by car or bus. It is the city where our families originated. What our ancestors saw in this valley was the Adriatic Sea to the east and, to the west, the often snow capped Maiella Mountains. This region of central Italy is called Abruzzo and its people refer to themselves as Abruzzese.

Lanciano is a city of about 35,000 residents and counts 19 churches / chapels! Its history is long, including a pre-Roman tribe, the Fretani people, then it became a municipality of the Romans, an important trade center during the Middle Ages, it was later controlled by conquering forces of the Spanish and French before the unification of Italy in 1860s. According to tradition, Lanciano is also the birthplace of Longinus, the Roman centurion who thrust his pear into Jesus’ side during the Crucifixion. Lanciano means “of the Spear” in Italian.

In the 14th century, Lanciano became the chief town in Abruzzo. It became an important center for market fairs that brought wealth to its citizens. As the population grew, it was necessary to divide the city into districts, these were called quarters (quartiere). Each of the quartiere: Civitanova, Borgo, Sacca and Lancianovecchia have special highlights to see and appreciate. This history is evident in the monuments and architecture to be found in the city. To know more about this place of our ancestors, take the following tour.

This tour begins in the central square of the older part of Lanciano called Piazza del Plebiscito. Facing the top of the square, we begin by looking at the Lanciano City Hall (municipio), to the right is the Basilica known as Madonna del Ponte and to the left is the monument to the young partisans who resisted the Germans during WWII. The figures represent a mother holding the dying body of her son wounded during the revolt.

The first district to be visited is Quartiere Lancianovecchio (old Lanciano) where the ancient fortified center existed before the earthquake in 770 AD. Walking the cobblestone path to the left of city hall, we pass the Teatro Fenaroli with its unique doors and then we move into an area with many medieval structures evident. It was in this area, according to oral tradition, that the earthquake long destroyed much of the city. Its buildings were rebuilt over ruins that can be seen even today.
A lone tower is to the left, the S. Giovanni’s Tower, 14th century and is the only remains of the medieval church of S. Giovanni. A walk along this way takes you pass two well preserved medieval storefronts that are still in use today.

In researching the DellaPietra / LaPietra family tree, it became apparent that most members of this family lived in the quarter known as “Il Borgo”. With the rise in population, the houses of the peasants close to the church of S. Legonziano formed the core of this quarter. In the Piazza Plebiscito, if you turn your back to city hall, you are facing the area of Quartiere Borgo.

Return again to the Piazza del Plebiscito and face the monument. This direction leads to the quarters La Sacca and Civitanova.  As you bear left, moving past the monument, a set of medieval stairs leads you to a 12th century church built over a temple dedicated to Apollo. It is S. Maria Maggiore (Mary Major), one of the best examples of French Gothic architecture in Abruzzo. This great aisled church leads to a processional cross of gold and silver dating from the year 1421. Notice, too, the massive 12th century doors that grace the front of the church.

We are in Quartiere Civitanova (new city). Among the other churches (S. Giovina with a relic of the saint), museums and antiquities found here are the ancient walls, Torri Montanare, that once encircled the city. The great fountain of Civitanova, begun in the 3rd century BC and completed in 18th century is best reached by car.

The summer months in Abruzzo come alive with many festivities and celebrations that relive historic traditions or honor the community’s patron saint. This is certainly true in Lanciano where its inhabitants have celebrated feasts for many years. On the last Sunday of August, the Mastrogiurato is commemorated. This is done with colorful medieval costumes, marching drummers, jesters and flag bearers showing off the colors and pride of their district. Each quartiere is represented with a portrayal of life as it was lived in the Middle Ages when fairs were prevalent. The residents re-enact protecting fellow citizens against actors portraying fierce and uncivilized invaders.

Finally, the Frentana Music Summer is an important and loved event in Lanciano. During the summer months, concerts are held during the days and nights with the Diocletian Bridge being the background for the musicians.

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